Monday, January 15, 2018

More fiberglass work

Dateline 01/13/2018 - Worked on more fiberglass this weekend.  Focused on the other door panel.  Pretty much the same routine as last weekend. The difference though is that I didn't wrap the panel as tightly with Saran Wrap as I did the other one and that caused some problems after the epoxy set!  I've got some lumps, air bubbles and bridging that I'm going to need to sand or cut out and repair.  Lesson learned, wrap it tight!

I also did the carbon fiber layup on the reading light switch using the vacuum bagging technique.  I had the same challenges as I had before, but the results turned out okay.  Will still need some finishing work and coats of lacquer, but it should be fine.

Finally, I got the car running.  I had to put some gas in it, but I did get it started pretty easily.  I've called the paint guy to look at the differences between the doors and the body but I need to drive the car over to the shop.  Maybe this weekend.

Well, that all to report!

Tuesday, January 9, 2018

Continued work on Door Panels

Dateline - 01/07/2018 - Continued work on the door panels and center console this weekend.  Sunday was a very wet day, which makes for a good day to work in the garage.  The morning started with getting set up for epoxy work, which means clearing an area, putting down cardboard, and prepping and staging everything so that it is ready to go, which included cutting three layers of 10lb fiber glass mat to fit the buck and one layer of peel ply.  This was the layup "schedule" for the part.  Here are pictures of the buck and the layup schedule:

Right back door-card buck

Fiber Glass layup schedule - three plies of  10lb fiber glass

I then started the actual layup by putting the first layer on top of the buck and started spreading epoxy.  It takes quite a bit of epoxy to do an entire door panel.  Fortunately I had gone to West Marine on Saturday to pick up more (105 Resin, 206 Hardener) because I emptied the container I had and made good dent in the new one.  I didn't keep count, but I probably used 15 pumps (the pumps are calibrated to deliver the correct amount of resin to hardener (1:5)) of resin to do the entire panel.

After the first layer was applied, I put on the second and continued to work epoxy into it to make sure it was completely "wet."  Once that was done, the third layer was applied.  As more layers are applied, less epoxy is needed because there is always extra from the layers below.  The key is to add epoxy where the fabric isn't wetting and making sure to squeegee the resin to bring as much to the surface as possible.  I use my hands (gloved of course) to move the epoxy around, as well as the stirring stick and a plastic squeegee. 

Once all the layers where done, I put the layer of peel ply over the top and then started wrapping the piece in Saran Wrap.  I could have used the Shrink Stretch material I got from Fibre Glast, but I knew that the Saran Wrap process works well and the peel ply will make it easy to remove.

Door panel epoxied and covered in Saran Wrap
Once the epoxy set (Monday) I was able to easily peel the Saran wrap and peel ply off to get the panel.  All it needs now is to cut off the waist and sand a few areas.

Door Panel with Saran Wrap and Peel Ply removed
I spent about three hours working the door panel and by the time I was done, I didn't feel like working on the other door.  So I did some work on the center console.  I stated last week that I was trying an idea to put the reading light switches in the center console.  Looking at it after a week, I really didn't like it.  So I filled in the hole I had cut with a block of foam and drywall plaster and looked for a new location for the switches.  I found it!  The switches will go on the back of the front center console, ahead of the cup holders.  This was the location of the rear air vent in the original car which I am no longer using. I didn't know what I was going to do with that area, so this seemed like a good solution.  I could put the switches there, in a holder similar in shape and size to what I used for the power window switches, and even use carbon fiber to keep the theme.

Open area above cup holders to be used for light switches
To prove that this idea would would, I cut a piece of foam to hold the switches and fit in the spot. It was perfect.

Foam prototype for light switches
Because I know the foam would not work well in the vacuum bag, I went ahead and modeled the part in Blender and printed out a couple of test parts on my 3D printer.  (Note:  The pink abs plastic is a leftover from printing a bunch of Lego "Pussy Hats" for a friend.  I have three lbs of pink plastic, and prototypes are just about the only use I can find for it!)

Light Switch Holder Blender Model

Light Switch Holder Blender Model
3D printed prototype for light switch holder in situ

Prototype light switch holder with light switch frames and center USB adapter in place
So now I just need to do a final print of part and carbon fiber cover it using the vacuum bagging tools.  I'm pretty stoked!

Wednesday, January 3, 2018

Happy New Year!

Dateline - 12/31/2017 - Had a long weekend with the New Years holiday so I got a couple of days to work on the car.  It was all consumed by door panels and fiberglass work.  I completed the left and right hand rear door panel bucks.  This required a lot of foam cutting, gluing, sanding and fitting!  What I learn on one side I can apply to the second, but since everything is a one-off, they are all a little different.  Too bad I'm not building these for a full production run!  I'd have everything ready to go! 

I also did the layup on the other armrest as explained in the last post.  I now need to cut openings into the rests, fabricate the metal reinforcements and glue them into place.  Once I have that done, I can fabricate the mounting points that will go on the doors, which will require pulling out the MIG welder.  Oh the fun never ends!

I also worked a bit on the center console in the back. I bought two switches for the back reading lights as well as a duel USB adapter that looks like one of the switches.  I cut open the center console to mount the switches, but I'm not sure I really like the results.  Still thinking this through. The nice thing is that the only thing I lose is foam and time.  Better to prototype to see if I like it before I expend fiberglass and carbon fiber to the effort!

Thursday, December 28, 2017

Happy Holidays!

Dateline - 12/26/2017 - Well another Christmas has come and gone and the Jaguar is still a project, all be it, now a running one!  We got snow Christmas eve and on Christmas day, so it was a white Christmas in Seattle for only the 9th time since records started in the mid-1800!

Cicka house, Christmas Day, 2017
I started working on fiber glass and carbon layup this week.  I purchased a bunch of vacuum bagging materials from Fibreglast ( one of my favorite on-line supply locations.  The materials I purchased were:

  • Stretchlon 200 Bagging Film
  • Low Temperature Release Film
  • Breather and Bleeder - 4oz
  • Econostitch Peel Ply
  • Gray Sealant Tape
  • Vacuum Connector

I also purchased a vacuum pump from Amazon and got a bunch of needed fitting at my local hardware store.

There are a lot of videos on the Fibreglast site on how to vacuum bag, but basically you use the Release Film or Peel Ply right against the layup.  Then you put Breather and Bleeder material above that to absorb the extra epoxy and allow the air to bleed out of the bag.  Then use the Stretchlon bagging film and the gray sealant tape to create the bag.  The vacuum connector goes through a hole in the Stretchlon.

My plan was to experiment with the window switch holders for the back doors because I print these out on my 3D printer and if I mess one up, I can easily print another.  My plan was to use a table surface for one side of the vacuum bag and attach the stretch bagging material to the table with the gray tape. I wanted the part to be elevated off the table so that the carbon fiber would hang below the printed item, so I planned to use two 3/8" sockets of the same height to elevate it.

I put together my bag materials before I started the layup.  I put the tape down on the table, put a piece of masking paper down, with the bleeder breather on top of that, then put the sockets down with the part on top.  I then cut the Low Temperature Release film, the breather bleeder that would go on top of the part and the Stretchlon for the outside bag.  I fitted the vacuum fitting into the Stretchlon and was ready to go.

My layup consisted of one layer of 3K 2 x 2 Twill Weave carbon fiber, which was the same as I used on the rest of the car.  I covered the part with a mix of West Marine 105 Epoxy resin with 206 Hardener then laid the carbon fiber on top.  I coated it with more epoxy to make sure that it was well impregnated then moved over to the vacuum bagging area.

I placed the part on the sockets, put the bagging materials on, sealed the bag to the table and then started the vacuum pump.  And sure enough, the bug pulled the material down and created a great fit, until I turned the pump off and the air leaked back in!  I found it very difficult to create a permanent seal!  My guess is that you can't really get a permanent seal with this process.  There is always going to be some leaking.

The other challenge I found was that, because I had the part elevated so much, the bagging material would stretch under the part until it popped!  I went through three bags before I finally got it to hold.  Lesson learned there.

Because the bag would not hold a vacuum, and I got tired of waiting for the epoxy to set, I cheated a little and tied a zip strip along the bottom to hold the bag tight, and put a piece of foam into the switch opening with a weight on top to keep the material pressed in.  I would go back occasionally and re-vacuum the bag, just to keep everything as tight as possible.  The part turned out okay, but I learned a few lessons that I applied on the next one.

Round two incorporated the things I learned from round one, namely:

  • Don't raise the part so far off the table.  This time I used nuts instead of sockets.
  • There is no need to use breather bleeder on top of the Stretchlon.  The Stretchlon is not permeable and there was no problem forming a vacuum on this part
  • Check for air bubbles.  If any air bubbles form between the layup and the Stretchlon, work them out.  Otherwise you end up with holes in the layup that need to be filled later.

Here are pictures of my second attempt as well as my vacuum rig.  

Materials: Peel Ply (top), Breather/Bleeder (middle), Streatchlon bagging material (bottom)
Vacuum pump with fittings
Valve to control flow
Bagging setup pre-vacuum application

With vacuum applied
As with the first one, air still leaked and I needed to use zip ties and weighted insert to help the bag keep the shape, however this one sealed much better and with what I learned, I got a much better part.  Here are pictures of the two parts right out of the bag.  The first one is on the right, the second is on the left.

Results of vacuum bagging.  First attempt on right, second attempt on the left

Same picture with flash.  Shows wrinkles prominently.

You can see wrinkles in both, but the first one on the right has far more and deeper, as well as a few air pockets. I think this is because I had the Breather/bleeder material covering the top and could not see how it was wrinkling, or the air pockets.  The second one did not have the breather/bleeder material and came out far better.

I also started working on other fiber glass work.  I glassed one of the armrests that I had formed out of foam a few weeks ago.  I was planning on vacuum bagging this also, but I ended up just doing the layup by hand.  I did use the Econostitch Peel Ply and the Stretchlon bagging film, but this time I just pulled the material around and used blue tape to hold it.  When I did this the first time several years ago, I used saran wrap without the Peel Ply, which worked okay but required a lot of finish sanding to and the saran wrap was very difficult to remove.  Using the Peel Ply and Stretchlon bagging film was much easier and I was able to remove the bagging film in one piece so I can use it again.   Here are pictures of the arm rest while wrapped and afterwords.

Right Armrest still in bagging material.

Right Armrest, back side, still in bagging material

Right armrest, bagging material removed

Right armrest, bagging material removed, back side.  Note: still have the glass the inside of the handle

Right Armrest with switch holder.
I've got another four day weekend coming up over New Years and hope to be able to get a lot more glassing done.  Look for my next report!

Until then, Happy New Year and welcome 2018!

Monday, November 13, 2017

Summers Over - Time to Get Back To It!

Dateline - 11/11/2017 - Well, Summer and Fall are over, at least it feels like it here in the Pacific Northwest, so it is time to get back to the car. 

Not much left to do now!  I need to finish up the back door panels and the center console and detail the trunk!  Seems like I can get that done this winter.

Saturday I was in the garage sawing and shaving pink insulation foam again as I started work on the door panels.  I didn't take any pictures, but I'll refer you back to this prior post ( since it is pretty much the same work.

I finished most of the panels themselves although there is a little more work to be done on each, and have carved the door handles.  I should be able to do the fiberglass work after the Thanksgiving break.  Once that is done, all that is left is upholstery!  Stay tuned!

Tuesday, July 11, 2017

Gas Smell Fixed and More Interior Upholstery

Dateline - 07/09/2017 - Well, looks like I got the gas smell fixed.  I can only figure it was the fuel line I bought.  These new alcohol based fuels need special fuel line and the marine grade I purchased seemed to do the trick.  Here is a picture of the finished setup:
Trunk with fuel lines
I did more work on the back upholstery, finishing the filler pad on the left had back seat and the seat belt well at the base of the seat.  Here are pictures of the right hand side.  The left looks the same.

Right side back seat bolster with over-shoulder reading light 

Right side back seat bolster with over-shoulder reading light

Right side back seat belt pocket
Right side back seat belt pocket with belt in place.

I also worked on cleaning up the hubcaps.  They had rusted inside the caps so I used some Navel Jelly to get rid of the really thick stuff and then painted them with rust inhibitor paint.  I will paint them next weekend.  I also removed the chipped paint around the Jaguar Head emblems in the centers and will mask and paint those too.  The caps are not prefect and have a few spots of rust in the chrome, but I'm going to use them for now.  They really need to be re-chromed, but I can worry about that at another time.

That was about it for Sunday.

Monday, July 3, 2017

Still Chasing Gas Smell and Doing Upholstery

Dateline - 07/01/2017 - I'm still chasing that gas smell in the truck.  I've gotten frustrated enough that I've ripped out everything in the trunk and starting over.  This time, I bought five feet of marine grade fuel hose a West Marine at $5.50 a foot (YIKES!) and started by plugging the hose directly into the right fuel tank and into the fuel input in the front wall of the trunk.  Then I completely washed the back of the trunk with dish washing soap to get any gas residue out.  Then started the car, let it run for awhile and checked for leaks.  Then I closed the trunk lid and let it sit.  No smell.

So, next, I pinched off the hose with a hose pinch tool, cut the hose at the fuel inlet and inserted a new steel tube that I made to run along the bottom of the trunk up to the fuel feed selection solenoid.  Cleaned everything, let it dry, started the engine, checked for leaks, then closed the trunk lid for six hours.  No smell.

Next I inserted a fuel filter into the hose coming out of the tank by pinching the hose at the tank, cutting the hose, inserting the filter, cleaning everything, letting it dry, starting the car, checking for leaks, than closed the lid for six hours.  No smell.

So now I inserted the fuel feed selection solenoid by pinching the fuel hose after the new fuel filter, cutting the hose to size and inserting it onto the right inlet side of the solenoid.  Next I cut the hose connected to the steel tubing to fit and slipped it on the solenoid's output fitting.  I needed to make sure the left intake side was plugged so that I didn't get any gas leaks there, so I took the remainder of the hose, slipped it on the solenoid and plugged the other end with a bold. Clean, start the car, close the lid.  No smell.

Now, time to bring in the left tank.  The tank was already empty, so I just removed the old hose I had on the tank outlet, took the bolt I was using as a plug out of the hose and plugged it into the fuel tank.  Cleaned everything.  Put a couple of gallons of fuel in the left tank, started the car with the left tank selected and checked for leaks. Closed the lid.  Was there a smell?  Don't know yet.  Will check tonight!  If there is no smell, the last thing to do is insert fuel filter in the hose from the left tank.  Here's hoping this works!

Also this weekend I worked on upholstery in the back of the car.  I got the 70 degree angle drill that I had ordered from Amazon several weeks ago and used it to drill the holes needed to mount the back reading lights.  Worked like a champ!  Nice to have the correct tools!  After mounting the light on the passenger side, I decided to make the upholstery needed to fill the gap between the seat and the body.  I still have a bit of 1" foam left over from building the seats, so I cut, glued, and shaped it to fit the void.  Then I cut and sewed the upholstery to fit the foam.  It's scary how good I'm getting at upholstery!

I did have a little challenge in the pocket area that is formed between the seat bottom and the door.  I thought I would fill it with foam also, but the pocket makes a really good seat belt storage area. So, instead of filling it with a foam pad, I decided to glue vinyl right to the body.  I had to sew a bit of piping to the edge so that it would meet cleanly with the carpeting.  I've very happy with the results and it makes a perfect little pocket for the seat belt. I'll grab some pictures and update this post when I have them.